Bermuda to Azores – Day 16

Time: 06/05/2008 0930 UTC

Location: Lajes harbor, Flores, Azores

Weather:  Cloudy, 60 deg F.

 

We first spotted the flash of Albernaz lighthouse on the northern tip of the island around 0100 UTC.  We were 31 nautical miles away.  The island must have been shrouded in fog, as the light was diffuse, a faded pulse with a five second period.  An hour later, several coastal settlements were visible. 

 

The sun rose behind the island, revealing the island in silhouette.  As the sun rose higher, the lush green cliffs and blanketing fog came into view.  I was reminded a bit of New Zealand, Hawaii, and the Oregon coast, where young, jagged rock meets the sea at oblique angles, and nature's imposing power is inescapable.

 

We hugged the southern shoreline as we sailed to Lajes.  A trail traversed the cliff, down to a rocky beach and a small white shed.  The cliffs were solid green with vegetation, in beautiful contrast to the azure water they met.  We dropped the sails, prepared the anchor, and motored into the harbor.  There were a dozen or so boats anchored there already. 

 

We were greeted by a pilot in a large inflatable.  He requested that we anchor giving wide berth to the pier, as a cargo ship was arriving.  Several sailboats were moving anchor.  He then motored out to the cargo ship, boarded the vessel, and joined the captain in navigating the harbor.

 

After inflating the dinghy and mounting the motor, we gathered the ship's papers, our passports, and went to meet customs.  There was a maritime officer on the dock.  He filled out several forms, took no fees, and sent us on our way.  "What about customs?" My father asked.  "Go.  Live your life.  If they want to talk to you, they find you."  I think we're going to like this island.

 

We walked a short distance uphill from the harbor before coming upon Ola's café.  The woman behind the counter was very friendly, and helped me stammer out an order for three beers and a loaf of fresh bread in Portuguese.  We drank the beers, devoured the bread, and continued on to explore the town.