Sunday, July 13, 2008

Eric Moves On

The highpoint of this adventure is that I got to spend 2 months with Eric, and in quite unusual circumstances.

I got so many comments from fathers about how lucky I was to have that opportunity, they were very envious (with good reason).

Eric took the time to make this happen, using up vacation and taking unpaid leave and I know it was about more than just the adventure.

I realize how fortunate I've been for this to have happened, we both gained a much deeper understanding of each other that there is no other way we could have gained.

I'm missing him tremendously already, but my loss is Robyn's gain and it is time for him to get back to his full and busy life.

Aside from the father\son bonding part, he's one hell of a crew to have on board.

As people with some experience with me can envision, this trip very much reflects my approach to things (big vision and plans, some very good and solid parts, but a general lack of preparation, attention to detail, etc).

When Eric joined, Kelly, Wylie and I had pulled things together just enough to get underway.(which was a great feat in itself as most of the boat was in pieces in my garage when Wylie arrived!).

Eric came aboard and instituted some order, priorities and took over everything that had a manual.

Now, after his 2 months on board, Severance is so much further along and Eric taught me how all the systems work (he claims he's not an electric engineer but I don't believe him).

I wish I had taken more notes...he's going to be getting a lot of phone calls from me.

So now I'm back to my own wits and will muddle through.

I've been told I need to take over the blog, the quality will not be the same (perhaps I can send my entries along to Eric for a rewrite!).

Eric – I miss you!!!!!!!

(Written by Scott; Posted by Diane for Scott)

New Crew Member

Severance has a new crew member...Armando Fontenele (late 30's from Brazil).

We met in Bermuda when he was crew on another boat. He crewed to Norway and then made his way here just before Eric departed.

He speaks English, Portugese, Spanish, Italian and (although he claims otherwise) a bit of French.

I've given him the task of teaching me Spanish, I hope he's up to the task!

Armando is making a major career change from being a university instructor in hotel management to becoming a licensed captain...his goal is to captain a large sailboat.

He is preparing to get his Yachtmasters certification, which is a universally recognized course of study administered by the British (similar to some US Coast Guard certification).

And, he's convinced me to give it a go also (puts some pressure on me as I could end up with crew that can prove they should be the captain instead of me!).

So, for the next weeks our priority will be to prepare for the certification process. There is no written test, an examiner goes out with you on a boat (we can use our own...a good thing), has you demonstrate proficiency and does oral examinations underway.

It is possible to hire an instructor for a few days to prepare, I'm hopeful they will have more success with me than others that have tried and failed in the past!

We plan to take the test in the UK sometime in late August, most likely heading there after a trip up the French side of the channel.

If I get it, I will put something in the blog, if Armando is the only one to pass do not expect to read about it!

(Written by Scott; Posted by Diane for Scott)

Brest – A brief(?) respite and where does the time go?

Severance changed course in the Azores to Brest, France (original destination was the UK) as we were told about a huge maritime festival that is held every 4 years.

My first impression was not good...I ran aground inside the marina (2am) making the boat the 1st to reach Europe!

After extracting ourselves (which would have occurred shortly in any case as the tide was incoming and runs about 20') we tied to an open spot to awaken to the typical weather conditions of the next week...30 knot winds trapping the boat against the pier!

We were extricated via a marina launch and brought inside to a normal mooring, the 3rd boat rafted against the wall.

The weather here matches Green Bay in early November, except it rains a lot (misting and full downpours).

People here are pretending it is summer and I will be walking in a fleece and rain jacket and pass someone in shorts and a tee shirt!

The 1st week here there was a huge low pressure center and terrible sea conditions, which kept a lot of boats in the UK that would have come to participate in the festival (classic boats).

Since then the weather has just merely been awful.

Enough about the weather, this is really a nice city and an amazing sailing center.

There are thousands of boats here, I will try to put something together about the festival and include a few photos.

Eric and I ended up catching the start of the Tour de France, total serendipity on our part. (kind of a brief experience, we saw them at the bottom of a hill and they are there and gone in a flash).

I'm decompressing, working on boat problems and trying to get things in order before we work our way up the coast of France.

My biggest issue is an intermittent drive train vibration problem that keeps us from having effective engine power when it occurs. Not a good situation in a high tidal current sailing environment.

I'm trying to get a mechanic, but Monday is Bastille day and everyone is totally booked until after the festival.

I'm still convinced the problem is my transmission...I have a spare one at home that I would love to drop in to see if that is the problem, but C'est La Vie!

We've finally located the major marine stores, so I can address the other issues.

Armando is amenable to any location as his goal is to study for the Yachtmaster certification.

The wireless internet service is (of course) typically out of range of the boat, and wasn't working for the 1st 5 days we were here. There is a computer available in the office, but the keyboard is French, making it an interesting experience to watch what comes out as you type!

Somehow the days just seem to get away from you...

Today we are off to the festival (which is 5 miles away at least...Eric and I made that walk too many times to count).

As for when the boat will move again, I can't say,

But I do need to decompress...the last few months are a total blur and I need some down time.

So, on with the fleece and rain jacket and off to the festival!

(Written by Scott; Posted by Diane for Scott)

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Azores Shore Leave – Day 14

Angra,Terceira to Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel
Date: Friday 06/20/2008
Weather: Overcast, again

Scott and Eric drove us to the airport. We arrived before 7am so had time to get coffee at a little café across from the airport. It was sad to say goodbye.

We arrived in Ponta Delgada at 9am, our flight for Boston was at 6:30. We had about 9 hours to kill.

We looked into renting a car to go up to see the blue lake and the green lake. These are two lakes high in the volcano that are side by side. One is a startling shade of blue. The other one right next to was and equally deep shade of green. The car rental from the airport was expensive and we were told that the visibility was so poor we probably would not be able to see it anyway. We decided to just go into the city and explore.

We found a place at the airport that would check our bags. Then we took a cab into the city. We wandered around for awhile but our hearts were not into it. Robyn debated buying some Pico wine to bring home, but she was already so overloaded with pottery, one more thing would surely break her back.

We found a little café on the waterfront and nursed our beers and watched the water.

About 3:00 we returned to the airport and checked in. A few hours later we were on our way home.

Eric & Robyn’s friend Adam met us at the airport. We arrived at around 10pm, an hour or more late, and my flight the next day was at 8am out of Manchester, New Hampshire.

Adam took us to a lovely restaurant in his neighborhood after which we went to his house.

My intent was to take a 24 hour free shuttle to the Manchester airport at whatever time we arrived in Boston and wait for my flight. I did not want to inconvenience anyone else because I chose to save money by flying out of a different airport.

Even though I am quite sure Adam is not a morning person, he would have no part of my going my own way. He was going to drive me to Manchester in the morning.

I insisted that if he got me to Sullivan Square I would pick up the shuttle to Manchester Airport. He told me that Sullivan Square was 6 blocks from his house. If I wanted to go there, I was on my own – I could find my own way (at midnight).

I didn’t argue too strongly, all I can say is that you are always welcome at our home Adam, and you will never again have to take a taxi from the Tampa airport!!

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Read Day 1 & 2 from Bermuda & Reflection on Gravity

For those of you (like me) who missed Eric's posts for the first two days of the trip from Bermuda to the Azores, go to the archives for May 23rd. Because they were posted with a May date they were not included with the June entries and I am sure that I am not the only one who missed them. His "Reflections on Gravity" is especially interesting.

Azores Shore Leave – Day 13

Angra,Terceira
Date: Thursday 06/19/2008
Weather: Overcast, light rain

Today, our last full day in the Azores, was overcast, but pleasant.

One thing that Robyn did not want to miss in Terceira was the Os Moinhos Resturaunt in Sao Sebastion. Her guide book said that this was unequivocally the best restaurant in the Azores. How could we miss that?

We had discussed going the night before, but it was late and it was in a town 30 minutes away. We would have had to get a taxi and have the driver wait while we ate dinner since there are no taxis in little Sao Sebastion. Since a cab for all that time would have cost as much as a car rental, we decided to wait until today and rent a car to see the island, and stop there for dinner.

There were a number of places on Terceira that were worth exploring. We rented the car and headed off.

First on the list was a little pottery shop called AzureArt. This woman made her own hand thrown plates and pots as well as tiles and other ceramics, all decorated in traditional designs. Her studio contained two kilns and all of her work in process, as well as finished product. We found her sitting at a work table painting designs on cups. I selected a rectangular serving dish and a little tile of a whale. Robyn picked out a number of serving size plates with a different traditional food painted on each one – sausages, bread, cheese, pork chops, … Eric picked out two tiles with line drawing of bulls. One was black with a white line drawing, the other white with a black line drawing. They will make very nice serving boards for cheese.

Next stop was the light house (Farol in Portuguese).



It was way, way, way down this single lane winding road.




Even then when we reached the light house it was very high above the sea. The light house had been automated so no one lived there any longer. You could see where they had.


This was the view from the light house.

We followed the road even further down until we came to a lookout overlooking the most incredible frothing water. It seemed to be more than just waves crashing, since it was not that windy. It seemed to me to be boiling and I wondered if there were heat vents like the fumas coming up under the water. We were not able to confirm my theory from the guide book or the signs around the lookout, so it probably was just waves. But either way, it was quite dramatic.









See how it looks like it is boiling.



Back up to the main road where we traveled a little further looking for the cheese factory. We found the cheese factory with its little café giving out free samples of their cheeses.



They were bringing the cows in from the pastures as we arrived. It was so picturesque, the cows lumbering by in single formation, some of them attempting to munch on the huge hedges of hydrangea as they passed them.

Then continuing down the village street to their barn.





The cheese was excellent. We ordered beer and the owner brought a big plate of cheese to sample. We bought some bread and that was our lunch. I wanted to bring some cheese home with me, but it was a soft cheese and the cheese maker said that it would not do well for 2 days without refrigeration.

Or next destination was a local winery. It was after 6pm and it was closed. Too bad, a little wine would have been a nice chaser for all the cheese we ate. Once again – Azorean cheese is some of the best I’ve ever had.

Horse drawn wagon with a milk can in Biscuit - the town that had the winery. This was not normal. This was the only example we saw of a horse drawn vehicle.

We continued our loop around the island and came to Vitoria. This is where the American airbase is and it was a much more modern city. It still had its old part with the narrow winding cobblestone streets, but much of it was modern and new.


We had to leave the beaten path to find Sao Sebastion. All day Robyn had remarkable luck in finding these little out of the way places. None of them were well marked, but she somehow would look up at just the right time to see some little obscure sign. That is what happened with Os Moinhos.


Os Moinhos used to be a water mill and was converted to a restaurant.

They are famous for their charcoal grilling. They also had the largest selection of wine we had seen to date, although we stuck with our favorite Pico wines. We knew we would not see them again when we got back to the states.


The guide book recommended reservations, however it was not a problem. We were the only ones there. The ambience was very nice, as was the food. Well worth seeking out.



We returned to Angra and parked the car. We would need it in the morning to go to the airport.

We had an 8am flight and planned on leaving the marina at 6:30am. That was another justification for the car – who knows how hard it might be to get a taxi that early. It was nice not to have to worry.